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How to Remove Old Carpet

How do you remove old carpet?

This question is for all of us who bought a new house that has that crazy red shag carpet circa 1976.

Which pretty much means anyone who’s ever bought a house in Pittsburgh’s city limits (I’m allowed to make fun of my own city’s styling flaws).

Removing carpet isn’t hard and I have a handful of really awesome tips to share with you…

…along with a detailed step-by-step checklist and video of this entire process.


Carpet Removal Supplies

Start by assembling your supplies. Here’s a list to help you out:

The total cost for all the supplies is $59.62.

But if you have a utility knife, pliers, and a hammer then the cost drops to $31.69. Hey, that’s cheaper than seeing the latest Disney kids movie in 3D with your family!!

Why would you want to remove your carpet yourself? Well, this is a great time to inspect the subfloor for any damage or squeaks.

Once the new carpet goes down you won’t be able to fix these problems. And I promise you that not every carpet installer is going to care about your home as much as you.

There’s nothing worse than a fantastic carpet that’s squeaky, trust me here!!!!

Carpet removal takes 30-60 minutes while pad removal is another 30-45 minutes depending on the size of your room. This post is chalked full of tips that’ll make removing carpet so much easier for you.

So let’s get to it!

How to Easily Remove Old Carpet 

You can remove carpet from your house all by yourself and without breaking your back. How do I know this? Well, I’ve done it and lived to share my stories of dog urine, bloodstains, and other unmentionable things that’ll give anyone nightmares.

Yeah pretty disgusting stuff!! But that’s what you get when you rehab rentals.

Most of the time old carpet is not underneath the baseboards (baseboards are the trim pieces that sit at the bottom of your wall). Thus, you shouldn’t have to remove the baseboards when taking out smelly carpet.

Start at one corner of your room and try to pull up the carpet. If it won’t come up then cut a small 6 inch by 6 inch square in the corner with your utility knife. Remove this small piece of carpet and then pull up on the larger section.

Your carpet is held down with tack strips. These little buggers are along the perimeter of your room, so just be careful not to hurt your hands or knees.

Carpet Tack Strips

To make the removal process easier, you should fold the carpet into the center of the room. I like to think of the carpet as a piece of paper and fold it into thirds.

Fold one-third of the carpet into the center of the room then cut the fold with your utility knife (Don’t worry, I show you how to do this in my video but please don’t comment on my messy hair. It was a long day of projects).

Fold Old Carpet
Cut Old Carpet

HOT TIP: Place both your hands on the utility knife while cutting carpet so that you don’t cut your FINGER OFF.

This will allow you to roll up the carpet into manageable pieces. Both you and your garbage person will have healthier backs and be in better moods if you use this tactic. You can use duck tape to secure the roll of carpet.

Roll Up Carpet

If you have a closet, you can cut the carpet where it meets up with the closet doors. This helps you handle the carpet a bit better when rolling it into thirds. And you’ll have one small piece to manage that’s in the closet.

In the end, you’ll have  3 large rolls of carpet that one person can take to the trash along with one small section from the closet (I prefer to throw this one out the window just for show-kidding here!!).

Here’s a video, it contains all my juicy tips wrapped up into one masterpiece.

Now you can tackle the padding.

How to Remove Carpet Padding

Carpet padding will be in smaller sections already. It’s tacked down with staples most of the time. If you’re unlucky, it’ll be secured to the wood subfloor or your concrete pad with glue.

I’m only gonna show you how to remove stapled-down padding.

Staples are only along the perimeter of the padding sections. Put on a pair of gloves if you have them because sometimes the staples get pulled up along with the padding and you’ll jab yourself. OUCH at best.

Carpet Padding Staples

Grab a section of padding at the corner and simply pull it up by hand.

Remove Carpet Padding

Roll up the pad and duck tape it just like you did with the carpet. In some cases, the padding will be a long roll.

You can fold it over on itself then duck tape it again. Padding is super light compared to carpet. So doing the double roll thing won’t kill your back 🙂

The next step is to check your floor for squeaks and remove loose staples or rusted tack strips. RUSTED TACK STRIPS!!! I’ll explain why you should look for them.

Subfloor Inspections, Removing Staples & Tack Strips

Walk around the perimeter of your room and look at the tack strips. If you see that they’re rusted this indicates

  1. A pet did its business on your floor at one time or another
  2. Someone spilled a drink or some other unidentifiable liquid
  3. There may have been a roof leak (which you’ll want to verify)

Either way, you need to inspect the wood subfloor (if you don’t have a cement pad). Make sure it’s solid and doesn’t flex too much. You’ll likely see a liquid stain on wood subfloor panels if the tack strips are rusted.

Any rusted tack strips should be removed and the carpet guys or gals will put new ones in.

Inspect Tack Strips

You can leave the tack strips on your subfloor if you’re going to install a new carpet. But, if you want to have new hardwood, laminate, or tile floors the tack strips need to be taken out.

Find the nails that hold the tack strip to the floor. Slide a pry bar under these nails then lift up on the strip. You may also need to pound the pry bar under the tack strip with a hammer.

The next step is to literally walk on every single wood subfloor panel. I strongly encourage you to bounce up and down while doing this.

Sure, it’ll look like you’re having your own personal dance party but that’s what you need to do. You’re checking for squeaks and creaks.

Like I said earlier, there’s nothing worse than spending $500-$2000 on beautiful carpet only to find that your room is squeaky.

Subfloor panels are attached to wood joists with screws or nails. When (not if) you find a subfloor panel that crows like, well like a crow, you need to secure it to the joist with ring shank nails.

Why ring shank nails? They’re grooved and have superior gripping power versus other nails. This means it’s highly unlikely the wood panel will become loose again.

Just pound a few ring-shank nails into the panel where you spotted the noise. I like to space the new nails about two inches away from the old ones.

Secure Loose Subfloors

Once you quiet all the panels you now have the unenviable task of removing all the staples. Again, this is especially important if you’re laying down wood, laminate, or tile flooring because the staples will make the new solid floors uneven.

Remove Staples

If you’re laying down a new carpet try to take out as many staples as possible using either a pry bar or pliers. This is a simple task but a true pain in the A$$.

So be prepared to spend a good 30-45 minutes. And it also makes sense to use a folded-up towel underneath your poor knees.

What’s Next

Fix squeaky floors before installing carpet or hardwood floors.

If you’re doing a bathroom remodel and need help, join one of our online courses – they’ll make your bathroom renovation much easier!

Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to help.

Thanks as always for reading, watching, and being part of our awesome community.



Remove Old Carpet

  1. Greg Frade says:

    I agree. I bought a 70 year old home and the carpet was new but stunk like an old home with cats.

    It took me 3 days to get the old carpet, tack strips, and padding out. It definitely broke my back. The crowbar is great for the tack strips. I just flung that thing under them and pushed down.

    Make sure you use eyewear as well because a few times I was hit in the face with small pieces of junk.

    1. Hey Greg,

      Eyewear, I knew I forgot something!! Thanks for adding that tip. Nothing worse than carpet that smells like cats or dogs. Stinky stuff


      1. Suzie says:

        Jeff – Likewise I found this good information by chance. I assure you I read the entire blog to be sure you didn’t already answer this question. I have the itch to pull up the old low tan shag carpet covering most is the house. I have the time to do it slowly and it’s just me doing the work. Girl. 50s, but active and in good shape. So the question is when I pull up the carpet. Treat presumably the concrete below for pet urine (my pets and prev home owners), then I Kilz or whatever I choose to seal the odors, what can I use on the cement to live in this until I get the floors installed – hard wood or engineered wood? Deep South with humidity. I have a lot of projects going on with help. But I can do this myself to save, but need to work around big furniture and it could be a while before I get the installation. Want the carpet up sooner, though. I know people and businesses seal concrete for aesthetic, but is it worth the time and how do I do it until I get my wood or laminate floors? Do I just live with the concrete for now? Then I have small dogs. So if I don’t seal and they soil, then more odor. Hope this makes sense. Want to live in it until final product. Any suggestions?

    2. Mike Christian says:

      Jeff, great post. I just started pulling my carpet. Your tutorial was very helpful. Thanks for doing the tutorials for us DIY’ers! Keep up the great work.

  2. LORRAINE says:

    Excellent post….

    1. Thanks Lorraine 🙂


  3. Jennifer says:

    We are planning on new carpet within the next few months and while we were looking the carpet guy said that if you have cement under the carpet and you have animals like we do, you might want to consider painting the cement before having new carpet put down. He said that this would eliminate any odors that might have settled into the cement. He said this actually happened to someone, so they had to pull up the new carpet and paint the cement to eliminate any odors.

    1. Hey Jennifer,

      That’s a great idea, to prime the cement. I’ve done this with rentals that were vacant and sat for awhile. Oil based primer works best at sealing in the smells. I’ve used Kilz with great success but other high solid primers would work well also.

      Great tip Jennifer.


  4. Another awesome post Jeff. I liked the tip on folding the carpet over before cutting. It’s so simple, but it never occurred to me. I’ve simply hacked away from the top in the past, dulling countless blades on the cement slab below. I also like the two-handed knife grip to avoid injury. I suspect a nice deep cut by a blade that’s been cutting pet-befouled carpet would not be a pleasant experience.

    I don’t know what’s worse, tedious staple pulling in wood or glue scraping on concrete. (Although, concrete sub-floors would certainly not have that tripod wiggle issue).

  5. April Owen says:

    My stripes along the edges (with the nails in them) have been impossible to remove. Any Ideas? Thanks, April

    1. Hey April,

      The tack strips are a pain in the rear. But you should be able to get them up by sliding a pry bar under the nails that hold them in place then wedging them loose. If the pry bar needs help use a hammer. It takes some persistence.


      1. Tena says:

        My tack strips were nailed directly into the hardwood floors. I had a devil of a time getting them up and of course I was trying to save the floor to refinish it). A couple of times I broke the tack strip around the nail then I gripped the nail with pliers and pulled them out (The installer apparently used his “used nail catch-all” jar to install the strips. There were varying lengths and types of nails used). I DID refinish the floors. There are a few blemishes, but MUCH better than the nasty shag carpet I pulled out.

        1. Hey Tena,

          Shag carpet, just think if all the stories it could tell 😉

          Great job with refinishing the floors. Do you have any tips that might help other DIYers?

          Mine would be to keep a drum sander moving at all times, never stop it. Otherwise the floor will get gouged and look roughed up after the stain is applied. But in all likelihood, we are probably the only ones who notice this imperfection.



  6. Cathy Wallis says:

    I love your tips and videos. I’m 59 and I have almost remolded my 1970’s home. I’ve learned to do things I never thought I could do , but always wanted to!

    I like your tips etc. because u make them easy to understand. My question?????? I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO CUT WOOD ( miter?) at an angle without messing up so much wood!!!!! I have the big electric saw. I just get the cut the wrong way!! Please help!!!

    1. Hey Cathy,

      Thanks so much 🙂

      You’re kicking some butt with your house. The 70s had some crazy styling but at least it’s all fixable.

      So you need some help with miter cuts. What kind if project are you working on? I’d totally be happy to put together a step by step tutorial for you if it’s something I’ve done before like baseboards or casings around doors & windows.


  7. Linda Hollander says:

    Well, Jeff, another great tutorial and I don’t even have any carpet to pull up!! Except, now you’ve got me thinking…I have hideous indoor outdoor, big-box store, black/grey tweed carpeting in my foyer and going down the stairs. There’s hardwood underneath, but I don’t know what shape it’s in. I would leave it in the foyer (I have a nice Oriental area rug over it, and it looks pretty good)…but I sure would like to get it off the stairs.

    BUT… 1) I have NO idea if this is a job for a little old lady, 2) I don’t know if it’s a good idea as I live in New England, and so the carpet is good for not killing myself as I come in or go out from November thru April,, and 3) then what is the alternative for the stairs: paint the risers and put down carpet treads? Re-carpet? (This seems like a no-brainer, I know, but really…what do you think?)

    I think removing carpet from stairwells would be a great tutorial!

    The carpet does NOT smell, it’s just ugly. And considering all the other projects that are not going so well this summer, it is definitely on the bottom of the list (can you say paint the back stairwell with oil based primer using a craft sponge brush, ladies and gentlemen??? You would think I never read your column!! I now have a brand new Purdy, roller pans, tape and all the accoutrements I should have had when I started this MASSIVE (two stories of back stair wainscoting, 100 + years old and truly disgusting) project. Did I mention the humidity in Maine? Did I mention the horrible smell of oil based primer? Draw the veil…

    1. Hi Linda,

      WOW! I’ll say that again, WOW!!

      You are a DIY inspiration.

      You also bring up a lot of good points about your carpet being a safe option as it prevents slips and falls (as long as it’s securely attached to the stairs). For now, it sounds like you should leave it in place as the winter months are approaching and you’ll surely being seeing snow/rain. My wife recently just fell down our carpeted stairs and it was terrifying. At least the carpet and pad eased her fall but she was banged up for a good week.

      So, with this in mind I’d said to maybe remove the carpet only if you’re willing to get a new style. You could always get new carpet on the stairs and pull up the rest in the foyer. What are your thoughts??



  8. Anne says:

    good stuff…and timely…..removing carpet from a bathroom this weekend. (Yes! A bathroom!)….I’m sure the carpet would make an interesting science study….Thanks! I like that you post a supply list!

    1. Hi Anne,

      Thanks, I’ll maybe do the supply list next time around if you like it. I’ve removed carpet from a bathroom, too. It’s kinda disgusting if the carpet is 20+ years old (especially if a male lived in the house). Hope your project goes smoothly and safely.


  9. Steven Davis says:

    Great help, had glued down padding. Nasty.

    I have a concrete pad, so the sealing suggestion was great, but I’m putting down laminate, so I also have to use leveling compound.

    Lost some concrete divots taking up the tack strips.

    1. Great job Steven, removing carpet isn’t easy but I hope some of my tips helped.

      Those tack strips are the worst part!!! Keep me posted on your progress.

  10. Genevieve says:

    Hi Jeff,

    Love your post! Quick question – do you think a room 12×13 could be handled by a 29 year old determined wife in one day? I’m weighing wether or not it is worth it to trouble the super-busy hubby with helping me…but I really, really want this carpet gone.

    Say, what about disposal? Do you have to reach out to a special company about that?



    1. You can totally do this Genevieve. If you start at 8:30 or so you could be done for sure before 4:00.

      In our area you can set the carpet and padding out for normal garbage pickup. But make sure to call your garbage company to see if they take carpet and padding.

      Chances are good that they will but if not you could call a junk or hauling company to come get it.

      Take some before and after pics, I’d love to see your work 🙂

  11. Tess says:

    Thank you for the tips on removing carpet. But I’m anticipating a problem. There are several dog stains on the carpet. If the odor has gone into the wood subfloor what can I do/use to remove or cover up the odor? Thanks

    1. Great question Tess and I had this happen at a rental. Here’s what I did: painted the wood subfloor with Kilz primer.

      If you can get your hands on oil based Kilz it’s better than latex. Give it a shot and wait a few days to see if the smell goes away.

  12. Emily says:

    Excellent tips and tricks – thank you for sharing! I’m going to be taking up the carpet in our large L shaped dining/front/living/hallway soon but need to do it in sections so I can move large pieces of furniture around.

    I thought I’d start in the hallway (the only place where it would be easy to do a small section first) but am wondering about how to cut & keep the carpet that I’m leaving secured? I was thinking of folding back, putting down a tack strip and then cutting it after the carpet has been secured to the tack strip? (Think of the fourth side of a box would remain carpeted) Or would a carpet/floor transition strip be sufficient?

    Thanks for any suggestions!

    1. I like your idea Emily. You could do a “T” transition strip that fits into a “U” shaped channel. The latter is a great option if you’re putting down hardwood or laminate.

      Great job thinking ahead and trying to figure out all the details.

      If anything, leave the carpet a bit longer so that you can fold it back like you said 🙂

  13. Marcus says:

    Great Job explaining sounds simple enough i think i’ll give it a try now

    1. Thanks Marcus, you can totally do this project. It’s pretty easy and goes quickly once you get the first section removed.

  14. Courtney Newton says:

    I have found my new DIY helper site! We recently purchased a home that is about 70 years old and used to be a rental. One word=CATS! I am going to be starting to pull out carpets along with many other projects. Thanks for your info Jeff! I’ll be bookmarking this site for future use!

    1. Congrats Courtney on your new home!!

      I do have a tip for you: if your subfloors are stained and have old cat urine on them you can prime them with Kilz primer.

      The Kilz will seal the subfloor and prevent the odor from coming back. If the subfloors are in really bad shape go ahead and replace them so that the new flooring is installed over a solid surface.

      Keep me posted on your progress 😀

  15. Linda McDonald says:

    Thank you SO much. You made it so easy to understand.

  16. bonnie says:

    great info. i need remove the carpet in my house. how much kilz is needed per room? have a very naughty dog urine issue.

  17. Debbie says:

    I need to remove carpet from the baseboards, YES the woodwork ALL around my house! (don’t ask; husband thought it would be a great idea!) I think it may be glued AND tacked on. (tried to remove it in the past; very difficult and didn’t have the time when we got new carpet) How can I remove this? (didn’t really want to buy all new baseboards) PLEASE help me!

  18. Cal says:

    Thanks very much. Unfortunately I did not see your video prior to my brand new carpet installation. Since the install, it seems that I have new spots in my subfloor with terrible creaking. I’ve called the install company and they are sending someone out to inspect. During the install on the second floor, periodically I would hear very loud crashing sounds while I was on the first floor. I wasn’t sure if this was them dropping the rolls down on the floor or the heavy tools they use. Nevertheless, I’ve got a problem and your comment in the beginning of this section is very true, “There’s nothing worse than fantastic carpet that’s squeaky, trust me here!!!!”

    I’m sure they are going to deny that this was a result of their work and I will still have the problem. Two questions for you:
    1) is there any way to repair the subfloor without pulling up the carpet?
    2) If the brand new carpet is pulled up to repair the subfloor,
    a) do they cut the carpet in spots to repair the board? If so, will this result in ugly, noticeable seams?

    Thank you, Cal

    1. Sorry to hear about your problem Cal.

      That stinks. I don’t know why some installers don’t check the subfloor!

      Well I kinda do, it takes time and time means money. So that’s why I prefer to do it myself.

      You can fix the squeaks a few different ways.

      You could use Squeeeeek No More, it’s a kit that allows you do drill special screws through the carpet and into the subfloor.

      I used it with moderate success. The kit can be found in Home Depots or bough online.

      Or you could have them pull back the carpet and fix the subfloor by adding ring shank nails to the squeaky areas. Make sure the nails are long enough to go through the subfloor and into the joists.

      Hope this helps and keep me posted 😀

  19. Melanie says:

    Hello, great ideas!! My question is: If i am pulling up carpet in my bedroom do i have to take apart my bed? I’d like to just move it around but i dont know if it is more of a pain or not. Thanks!!

    1. Brilliant question Melanie.

      I’d say that you don’t have to take apart the bed as long as you can move it around the room and be able to tear up a 3 foot by 6 foot section of carpet.

      It’s way easier to shift the bed around the room like a puzzle piece than to take it apart and have to put it back together.

      Hope this helps 😀

  20. monica guzman says:

    This is so helpful! I’ve never done this stuff before bit I can’t wait to redo the whole house. Love how funny you are too!

  21. Joe says:

    Nice tips! I’m going to be pulling up my carpet and putting in wood floors. The dog has peed on the carpet about 100 times and it’s just too gross, even after steam vacuuming several times. Are there any steps I should take to remove any potential odors from the wood beneath the carpet?

  22. Kim says:

    Holy cow! Removing the carpet has been the hardest job I have ever taken on – even more than giving birth to my four kids!! I have a tight pocket book, a bad back and a stubborn streak 10 miles long! My back is pretty much shot but I am almost ready to get the new flooring put down. Carpet pad staples and tack strips are the devil. No other explanation needed. I know though once it is all done and my back has gotten some rest I will be happy knowing I kicked butt!!

  23. Debra Allen says:

    Thanks Jeff for the carpet removal tips. Much easier than how I did it the last time.
    In process or removing old, old basement carpet glued to cement floor. Any tips on how to remove the glue/gunk without causing brain damage? Chemical removers in a basement make it hard to breath for long…help. Do I have to scrape it off? Tis a big area, sigh.

    1. Michelle says:

      Thanks for the tips! Great pics as well 🙂

      P.S. Hot hot water (like just below boiling) will take old icky carpet pad residue up off concrete floors.

  24. Jolie Wang says:

    This is really helpful post. I learn from it a lot and apply for my house. Thanks for sharing. Keep posting.

  25. wendy says:

    Hi Jeff –

    Thank you for all this information! It took me quite a bit longer to remove carpet, but not as long as it would have if I had not found your DIY.

    I do have squeaks and some are on the stairs. How do I know where to put the nail? Other screws are not clearly laid out like in your picture. I have not gotten to this stage yet, but I want to be ready. I will be restoring the hardwood floor so I don’t want to put unnecessary nails in to it.

    Thanks – I think I might join your community :o)

  26. Theresa says:

    it was just a huge remnant so as I was pulling the carpet, which came mounted to the pad, the pad was NOT coming up. They were just separating and the ad is stuck to the floor. I’ve spent 3 hrs. scraping and not getting very far. Any suggestions?! Please!!!!!

  27. Rose says:

    I’ve removed old carpet and padding recently. The way I removed padding and almost all the staples is with a flat shovel. It was EASY and FAST and I’m no spring chicken so I wanted a really easy way to do it. I use a flat shovel for weeding and snow removal when there’s ice. It didn’t scratch or damage the wood subfloor and I love my flat shovel! Now for painting, that’s the back breaker!

  28. Joan says:

    I read your post about removing old carpets. Unfortunately I found out that the previous owner had added panelling to the room, which is overtop of the tack strips about half way along the width of the strips. As a result I am having a terrible time getting the older carpet out. Any suggestions?

  29. Heather says:

    This is great– a few things I never would’ve realized until I was REALLY frustrated and it was too late to turn back!

    But before I replace the ugly carpet with a lovely new floor, I want to get the room painted. But it seems pretty silly to paint the walls and THEN rework the ceiling (ain’t home ownership grand?!).

    SO have you ever removed a popcorn ceiling? I’d love to see a post on it, if so. I know it’s a super messy job and will be a lot of work (especially with my vaulted ceiling), but I also know it’s super expensive to hire out. Please help me if you can!

  30. Cheryl K says:

    I have a big job ahead & trying to save money, so I plan to remove ALOT of carpet. I THINK my pad is stapled – but what if it is glued? We are installing Pergo over the subfloor . . .

  31. Dee says:

    Thank you so much this really help me… I need to do a lot of stuff to my home including ripping up old carpet. I want to put down new carpet, hardwood floors, and paint.. What a project for little old me 🙂 but I know now at least I got the pulling up the carpet out of the way. Quick question I did see in the video where you said if you are putting down hardwood floors or laminate to remove the tack strip, but I seen in a ladies comment that she said she had a tack strip under her hardwood floors.. is that something that I should leave or pull up?

    Also I can’t decide whether to put down real hardwood or laminate. I have something to people telling me different stuff of course from store to store. Some say real hardwood is better and last longer and others say laminate is better because it’s more durable as far as scratches etc … what do you think?

    1. Hey Dee, great questions. Definitely remove the tack strips if installing any hardwood or laminate.

      In terms of the floor…I like hardwood as opposed to laminate. It looks better and can be refinished.

      But if you’re on a budget or installing the floor in a basement then laminate or engineered hardwood are great options.

      I also included some comments in my podcast in episdoe 237

  32. Amelia R says:


    First I want to say thank you so much for taking the time to include captions in your videos and also writing the steps down (with pictures!) for your projects. It’s a big help for deaf people like me who want to DIY but all the videos I find have no captions!

    With that said, I noticed you did not make a video on installing laminate/tile/hardwood. Would you be making one in the near future? Or maybe writing down steps on how to do this? I am looking to remove my carpet and install laminate. Your removing carpet video/written steps is very helpful, I just need the installing laminate video/written steps. If you will be doing this please let me know so I can keep an eye out.

    If not, still want to say thanks for the captioned videos! Much appreciated!

    1. Our pleasure to help in any way Amelia and we’ll continue to add captions. Our assistant Ronald is the one who does that for the videos, he’s amazing.

      We don’t have a laminate installation video yet. We might have one in the next few months. Steve is installing laminate in a house he’s flipping.

      So maybe we’ll have some good suggestions for you. I’d recommend getting laminate with a pre-attached pad. And the thicker the laminate the better off you’ll be, I like 10 or 12 mm thick laminate.

      Always feel free to ask a question. We’re here to help.

  33. Trinda says:

    Can I leave the staples in my floor or hammer them down to prepare for wood laminate.

  34. R. Leo Picado says:

    Thanks for the tips. I was using my utility knife to cut the front of the carpet: I will use on the back from now on.
    Also, use safety glasses. I know someone who ended up in the hospital with a carpet fiber in her eye.

  35. ryan says:

    Thanks for the primer on knife safety. My cousin once tried to remove his carpet (it’s all about the floor beneath!!!) and hurt himself real bad. Eventually, he had to go to the ER. What an expensive capet removal that was.

  36. April says:

    Thanks for the great tips. We just moved into a house and discovered 3 rooms of carpet are ruined from owners pets. Sigh. So… Carpet installers are in a hurry and we need time to treat subfloors for urine after carpet gets removed. Wondering if we should pull it ourselves. Questions are:
    I know about Kilz. Is one coat usually enough and are there any less toxic options that will work?
    And, if we pull carpet ourselves, how do you handle a pad that’s been glued down? Not sure we are up for that.
    Haven’t been able to sleep in our bedroom since we moved in so want to get this remedied quick. Thank you.

  37. Pam says:

    I was excited to stumble onto your site. I have 4 rooms in my basement that I would like to have the carpet removed from. Two rooms have glued rubber backed carpet and 2 rooms have tack strips with glued down pad. I am a 60 year old female in good health and pretty good shape. The carpet has been in the basement for 40 years 🙁 Is this a project I should consider tackling on my own?

  38. Susan says:

    This video was awesome! I made you a pic of my neat rolls of carpet and pad on the curb in front of my house, but don’t see a way to post it for you. You’re instructions were flawless! Thank you!!!

    1. Thanks Susan, yah there’s no place to add pictures on HRT yet. But you can join our free Facebook group and post them there. Great job with your carpet. It’s never a fun job but well worth it to DIY.

  39. This is a custom theme by Conversion Cats. I’d recommend checking it out. They’re great to work with and easy to install.

  40. Gift For says:

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  85. Liz Hyde says:

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  117. Cierra says:

    Hi Jeff! I’m currently redoing my bedroom and putting in a new laminate floor! While reading your wonderful and helpful tutorial I had questions when it came to the wool under the padding where all those hats staples would be. I believe my house was built in the early 30s and from the looks of what I can see there are long wood planks and I’m curious to know what I should do if the floor has weakspots in it? Meaning the floor underneath isn’t perfecting flat. Thanks!

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