Your tile floors need Schluter DITRA Peel and Stick.
Here’s why: it stops cracked tiles and toilet catastrophes.
You’ll see everything you need to know for a proper installation in this step-by-step guide.
Let’s dive in!
Ultimate DITRA Peel and Stick Guide
Every DITRA installation can be broken down into these steps:
- Substrate Prep (Plywood or Concrete)
- Dry-Fitting DITRA Mats
- Priming Plywood or Concrete
- DITRA Peel and Stick Mat Installation
- Optional Waterproofing (although I recommend it)
You can tap the above links and they’ll take you to the specific step.
Also, many thanks to Schluter for sponsoring this guide and for providing materials for my client’s project.
I always use Schluter DITRA on plywood or concrete.

Tile floors get installed over it. DITRA is an uncoupling membrane and this is important to understand.
Uncoupling membranes prevent cracked tiles because they uncouple the tile floor from the substrate.
For example, if concrete cracks, that crack can be transferred to the tile if DITRA isn’t under it.
In addition, DITRA provides a waterproofing layer. If you apply banding (which I’ll explain) and the toilet overflows, the damage will be less likely to be catastrophic.
But the first step is substrate prep.
Step 1: Substrate Prep
Normally tile has to be removed from the substrate.
This leaves mortar behind on the bathroom plywood or concrete.
How do you remove tile mortar?
I use three different methods.
The first involves using an SDS hammer drill with a mortar removal accessory.

Then I remove any thin residue with an oscillating multi-tool and rasp.

Another method is to use a grinder with a mortar removal blade. This method produces a lot of dust. So I reserve it for difficult situations.
I then remove any dust off the substrate with a damp sponge.

And depress nails, screws, or staples below the plywood surface.
At this point, I assess the substrate to see if it’s level.

If the floor is within 1/4 inch of level, I leave it alone; especially if it’s flat or in the same plane.
However, if the floor is more than 1/ inch out of level, I self-level it.

This is important,
DO NOT self-level over DITRA. The Schluter Handbook specifically recommends self-leveling BEFORE the DITRA installation.
Once the substrate is prepped properly the next step is to dry-fit the mats.
Step 2: Dry-Fitting DITRA Mats
I like to dry-fit all the DITRA mats and label them.
For instance, I cut the mat to fit the toilet area and the closet flange location.

I use a sharp utility knife blade to cut the mats.

I also cut the mats to fit underneath the door jamb.

The reason I do this, is because I position my tiles under the jamb. And that makes the tile floor installation look cleaner.

The final mat should fit like a glove.

And all the seams should be as flat as possible.
Once the mats are cut to size, I move on to priming.
Step 3: Priming Plywood or Concrete
You don’t have to prime the substrate.
If your plywood or concrete is new or in good shape, it’s likely the primer isn’t necessary.
However, most of the time I’m working with older homes. So I prefer to use the DITRA-PRIMER-PS.

This primer is specifically for DITRA Peel and Stick.
I mix it for 1 to 2 minutes and pour it into a paint pan.
Then I use a 1/4-inch nap roller to apply it to the substrate.

The primer should not pool on the plywood or concrete. Instead, it would be worked into the surface.

PRIMER-PS cures very fast. I set a timer for 10 minutes to 60 minutes and check to see if it’s dry by pressing with my finger.
If primer doesn’t come off the substrate, you’re ready to install the mats.
Step 4: DITRA Peel and Stick Mat Installation
Know this,
DITRA Peel and Stick is tacky. It will stick to your hands and the floor.
But you can maneuver it because the adhesive is pressure-sensitive.
I normally start at the toilet and install the mat.

I lightly press the mat into the substrate.
Then I work my way into the doorway.
I pull the plastic half off the mat, hold onto one end, and then align the mat with the previous one installed.

This makes the installation fast and easy.
Once all the mats are installed I use a wood float for the next step.

I press the float into the mats and push it with 90 to 100 percent of my force.
I do this in two directions, the second pass is always perpendicular to the first.

This activates the pressure-sensitive adhesive and bonds the mats to the substrate.
The next step is optional, but I recommend it near toilets!
Step 5: Optional Waterproofing
Clogged toilets that overflow are just gross.
Plus, the nasty water can make its way into adjacent rooms.
One way to limit this catastrophe is to waterproof the toilet area.

I use Schluter ALL-SET mixed to the membrane constancy and apply it in the corner with a KERDI trowel.

Then I embed KERDI-KERECK prefab corners in the corners and overlap them by 2 inches with KERDI-BAND.
I make these corners as flat as possible so they don’t interfere with my baseboard or tile floor.

In addition, I waterproof the seam in front of the toilet with KERDI-BAND.

Sure, this takes additional time and money. But I like doing it for my clients so they have peace of mind.

Here’s the full YouTube tutorial in case you’d like to see how everything is put together
By the way, all the methods for waterproofing this small area are similar to those used for Schluter shower installations.
So if you get comfortable doing a DITRA Peel and Stick installation, you’ll be ready for bigger projects in your master or hall bathroom.
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Thanks for reading this guide. I hope it helps you out!
Jeff
